Pruning is an essential gardening activity. Whether you have a small balcony garden or acres of rolling lawns, you’ll need to head out into the garden armed with your pruning shears at some point in the year.
When compared to other simpler gardening tasks, pruning can seem quite technical. And depending on the plant, it often is. This leads many gardeners to make a few easily avoidable mistakes that could end up damaging their plants long term. Many plants are incredibly resilient and will bounce back without trouble, but it’s far better to avoid these mistakes and get the process right the first time than deal with a greater issue later on.
The first mistake deals with the tools used. Whether you’re pruning your herbs or a massive hedge, your tools should always be two things – clean and sharp. Gardening tools can harbour bacteria or fungi from prior use that get transferred to your plants during your next pruning session. This is a surefire way to spread disease throughout your garden, so make sure your tools are always clean before you get going.
They should also be well sharpened. When you’re anxious to get out into the garden and spend time with your plants, it’s understandable that the last thing you want to do is spend your time sharpening tools. However, blunt tools only make the task of pruning more difficult. It requires more force from you to finish, especially when it comes to dense shrubs or trees, and it is likely to damage the plant stems or branches at the same time. This prevents healthy regrowth, which is often the goal of pruning in the first place.
With tools sharpened, you should be ready to get pruning, but you need to ensure you don’t do so at the wrong time. Different plants need to be pruned at different times and may require different levels of pruning throughout the year. In spring, a light trim to promote new growth is normally the go-to, while larger cutbacks are done in autumn. Understand the needs of the specific plant you’re dealing with before you get started. Take hydrangeas as an example – some hydrangeas form flower buds at the end of the season to prepare for flowering the following year. If you cut these buds off during an autumn prune, you will have no flowers next year.
When it comes to the level of pruning done, there is always the risk of pruning too much. Pruning essentially creates open wounds on your plants. They have the ability to heal and come back stronger, but this does take quite a bit of energy. If you prune too much while the plant is growing, it can become stressed and go into survival mode – not good for healthy growth. For other plants that can be cut down to the ground without trouble, this is not really a concern, as long as it’s done at the right time.
And finally, we have the mistake of pruning without a clear goal in mind. You should always have an idea of why you’re pruning before you start, to guide you as to when to prune, how much of the plant to prune, and the technique required to get it right. This will prevent you from making avoidable mistakes in the process or taking it that little bit too far and harming the plants you are trying to help. It doesn’t have to be a tedious or difficult process if you understand your intentions.
Indoor plant care can be tricky, depending on which plants you own and how many you have. Between providing the right lighting, watering consistently, and watching temperature fluctuations, there is a lot to consider in keeping your houseplants alive.
However, those aren’t the only required tasks in indoor plant care. There are many other small tasks that will improve the look and growth of your plants over time. Some are mostly for aesthetics, which could be considered ‘manicuring’, while others do have a long-term impact on plant health. Make sure you tackle these tasks this year to give your plants the best start possible in 2022.
Clean The Leaves
Your first manicuring task is cleaning your plant’s leaves. Outdoors, plants receive a thorough cleaning when it rains, and enough wind to knock off any unwanted debris. Indoors, that is not the case. Homes are dusty and full of stagnant air – an environment not conducive to clean, shiny leaves.
As dust settles on your plants, their ‘breathing’ is obstructed. Plus, dusty plants, like dusty homes, are not particularly pleasing to the eye. Give your leaves a gentle wipe with a cloth every month or two after watering and wipe down the pot to remove dirt.
Remove Debris
The second task, only taking about five minutes out of your day, is to remove any dead leaves or debris around the base of the plant. In nature, plants are consistently surrounded by decaying leaves and plant debris. They prefer it, as these organic materials decompose and add nutrients back into the soil. But indoors, it’s not a great look, and can attract pests and diseases.
Every so often, just before the plant’s next watering, remove any decaying leaves that have fallen off the plant and any other materials obstructing the soil. You can also remove dying leaves from the plant before they drop. This will promote growth as the plant doesn’t expend any extra energy trying to keep a dying leaf alive.
Pruning
Committed indoor gardeners with unruly plants can attempt to prune once a year, although this is not usually necessary for most indoor plants as they grow far slower than they would outdoors.
Pruning promotes new growth and keeps the plant to a more manageable size. You are welcome to let your plants go wild and skip pruning altogether, but if you want your plants to be more compact, this is a good step to take. Hanging plants in particular may benefit from an occasional pruning to lower the pressure of the hanging stems on the base of the plant.
Repotting
Many indoor plant parents forget to repot, only considering the task when the plant shows signs of stress. However, your plants will be far happier when placed in their new pots at just the right time.
Due to their slower growth, most indoor plants will only need to be repotted every 2-3 years, or when their soil begins to degrade. Quick-growing plants may outgrow their pots faster than that, but mature established plants won’t mind a longer period between repotting.
This is one task you certainly don’t want to miss. As the roots begin to outgrow the pot, they may stop taking up moisture and essential nutrients. Growth will also slow and can stop completely, ultimately killing the plant. Degraded soil will have detrimental impacts on the health of your plant as it lacks nutrients and cannot hold onto moisture. If that time has come, make sure you don’t put off repotting this year.
You can grow almost anything in containers. With the right size pot and the right conditions, most plants that are typically reserved for garden beds or backyards will thrive (some even more than if they were grown in the garden). There are even varieties of plants bred specifically for growth in containers.
But, while you have almost unlimited choices in what you can grow, your garden conditions will still limit which plants will grow well. These are a few things to consider in picking your ideal container plants.
Climate
Local temperatures dictate which plants you can grow and how well they will grow. To assess the climate in your region, you need to understand the climate type. In South Africa, we have a wide variety of climate types, from lush subtropical to arid desert and almost everything in between. If your containers are going to be placed outside without protection, you need to ensure the plants chosen are suitable for your climate first.
Light
Where indoor gardeners use terms like ‘bright light’ or ‘low light’, outdoor plants are distinguished by the terms full-sun, partial sun, and shade. Full-sun plants need over six hours of sunlight per day (some need more), partial sun between three and six, and shade plants under three hours. Other descriptors you may see are morning or afternoon sun, which speak for themselves. You will need to limit your choices to a certain range of plants whose light requirements match your outdoor conditions.
Other Considerations
Other conditions like humidity and wind can influence a plant’s growth but can also be managed to meet the plant’s needs. Humidity can be altered with the same practices used indoors – grouping plants or placing them on a tray. Wind, which damages weaker plants, can be blocked with screens or shields.
The two conditions you are unable to control are climate and light, so start there. When you purchase a plant from the nursery, it should indicate the plant’s conditions on the label, but you can also ask someone for help to find the perfect plant for your conditions.
Companion Planting
When choosing plants that will share a pot, consider plants with similar conditions that are known to grow well together. When combining plants in the same pot, they are sharing light, space, and most importantly – soil. Any maintenance you do will apply to all plants simultaneously.
Before grouping plants together, ensure their desired conditions are matched, so one plant does not survive at the expense of the other. For example, when planting a herb container, thyme and rosemary will grow well together as they have similar needs, but sage will die because it has different water requirements. Similarly, mint tends to dominate any pot and is best planted alone.
Time
After considering the plants, don’t forget to consider yourself. You, as the gardener, will be committing time to care for whatever plants you choose and some are more demanding than others. Like any good relationship, you should understand the level of commitment required before jumping in. Plants in containers need to be watered more often, checked for pests regularly, and need more plant-specific care than those left to their own devices outdoors. Decide how much time you want to spend on plant care and which difficult plants you are willing to deal with before you buy.
While making your choices, don’t forget that they are not set in stone. Container gardens, unlike established backyards, are made to be tweaked, changed, and played with until you settle on what feels right. In fact, you don’t have to settle on anything at all. Container gardens embody variety, change, and experimentation. Embrace those factors, learn along the way, and you will master choosing the right plants and container gardening in no time.
Sunflowers are guaranteed to brighten up any backyard. Their bright yellow blooms are irresistible, inducing smiles in anyone that sees them. You don’t need to drive past a sunflower field to appreciate their beauty either. It’s easy to grow your own in your garden, giving you gorgeous giant flowers year after year.
Planting
Evident in their name, sunflowers (Helianthus) need plenty of sunlight to grow well. A minimum of 6 hours is necessary, but around 8 hours of unfiltered direct light is ideal. Before planting, amend your soil with compost and a dose of slow-release fertilizer like Atlantic Bio-Ocean – sunflowers are considered heavy feeders.
You may be surprised to find how large these plants actually grow (or, if the blooms are anything to go by, you’ve likely already guessed). The long taproot burrows deep in the soil to support the massive stems. When planting, loosen the soil quite far down to facilitate this growth. When growing in containers, choose a smaller sunflower variety and ensure the pot is deep enough to accommodate root growth.
Seeds can be planted throughout spring and summer once the soil is warm enough to trigger germination. Space seeds around 15cm apart and push gently into the soil. Smaller sunflowers can be spaced closer together, while incredibly tall ones will need a bit more growing room. Water thoroughly immediately after planting to stimulate growth.
To stop your plants flowering at the same time – leaving you with a pile of sunflowers and no clue what to do with them all – plant a batch of seeds every 2 weeks for about 2 months for continuous flowers. Flowers should shoot up within 2 months of planting.
The seeds should germinate in 7-10 days. Keep an eye out for pesky birds in the meantime that love snacking on sunflower seeds just as much as we do.
Care
Sunflowers are not fussy plants, but will reward you with many more impressive blooms under the right care.
Due to their height, sunflowers will benefit from staking, especially in windy regions. Place stakes early to avoid disturbing the roots later on, and continue to tie the stem to the stake with a flexible material as it grows to stop the plant from falling over.
These plants grow best when given consistent water, though they prefer when the soil does not stay moist for too long. Once the top layer of soil has dried out completely, it’s time to water again. If the heads and stems and falling over, they’re telling you they need more water.
The slow-release fertilizer applied during planting should be enough to sustain your sunflowers. If you’re not seeing many blooms, apply a dose of fertilizer high in phosphorus and potassium to improve flowering.
You won’t encounter too many issues with pests and diseases when growing sunflowers, bar the light sprinkling of powdery mildew that is easily removed. Where you will have a problem however, is with the birds in your garden.
Birds are wonderful garden friends, and gardeners usually go by the mantra ‘the more the merrier’. However, they are sunflower-obsessed and will do anything to get to your sunflower seeds. Adopt a quick cut-flower approach by removing blooms as soon as they are ready, or install a protective barrier around your sunflower patch.
Sunflowers provide you with two benefits – stunning flowers and tasty seeds. Cut blooms in the early morning before the heat of the day sets in. They will need a tall vase and plenty of water to keep them standing upright. To harvest the seeds, leave the flowers on the stems until the petals have died back. Once the heads have turned brown, the seeds should be easy to shake off. Give them a rinse and eat them as a snack or toss a few into your favourite salad.
Spring and summer are the seasons to truly appreciate the flowers in your garden. Of course, they look beautiful and attract plenty of garden friends that help the environment too. But there is one character they provide that may be overlooked in favour of their beauty – scent.
So many flowers release intoxicating scents that upgrade the experience in your garden dramatically. These scents are the inspiration for the thousands of perfumes and sprays we cover our bodies and homes in, so what could be better than the real thing? Ensure you have at least one of these six plants in your garden for the ultimate sensory feature.
Roses
A classic flower that has spawned millions of devoted followers and several societies dedicated to their appreciation and preservation, the rose is a must-have in any scented garden. If they weren’t, the phrase ‘stop and smell the roses’ wouldn’t be a cliché. When planted en masse, roses fill the air with a sweet scent unlike any other flower. When planting one, you may have to get up close and personal to appreciate the fragrance, but it will certainly be just as special.
Lavender
Another classic floral scent, and a great companion for roses, is the humble lavender. Very few gardeners can resist this bushy plant covered in hundreds of small purple flowers that not only look fantastic, but smell great too. Walk past a lavender bush and you can’t help crush a few leaves between your fingers or pull the flowers up to your nose. Few need more convincing than that, but they do come with the added benefit of holding their scent when dried, making them ideal candidates for potpourri.
Gardenia
Take a look at the descriptions in any perfume store and you are bound to see gardenia more than a few times. This popular scent is captivating, and the flowers have a remarkable ability to permeate the air in your garden. Depending on which gardenias you choose, your garden could be filled with their fragrance from spring all the way into autumn. Alternatively, cut them off their stalks and bring them indoors to fill your home with their scent from a decorative cut flower vase.
Sweet Alyssum
A fragrant plant that doesn’t get as much attention as it deserves is sweet alyssum. It’s prized for its ability to fill containers, cascade over the sides of hanging baskets, or act as a ground cover, making it the perfect companion plant. It is less well known for its stunning scent that is – as the name describes – incredibly sweet. Sweet could also describe the small blooms that grace our gardens twice a year in spring and again in autumn.
Jasmine
Those who favour more tropical scents over the delicate, creamy ones mentioned before will appreciate jasmine. This climber will cover fences, archways, and trellises to sport bright white flowers in late spring and into summer. The scent is so strong, due to the hundreds of flowers and vigorous growth of this plant, that it is bound to become your garden’s signature scent.
Magnolia
This list would be incomplete without at least one tree, and from the many to choose from, we have to opt for magnolias. Magnolias are truly magnificent, from the size of the flowers to the shade of the foliage. But where it really stands out is in scent. A mix of tropical, sweet and floral, towering magnolia trees make a sensory statement wherever they are planted.
Spring, the season of new growth, quickly becomes the season of more spending – especially for avid gardeners. Luckily, you don’t have to spend thousands for the perfect spring garden, especially if you’re a newbie gardener on a budget. There are many ways to start one that won’t break the bank. Try these tips for stunning spring blooms, without the extra cost.
Plan, Plan, Plan
Restraint is difficult for all gardeners at the best of times. But it’s essential, especially when you’re on a budget. A good plan – and a modest plan – will ensure you stick within your budget while achieving your dream garden goals.
A good garden plan helps you visualise what your garden will look like and betters your understanding of what your space has to offer, especially in terms of light, soil, and water. Knowing this stops you from excitedly splurging on tons of plants that won’t thrive in your garden anyway.
Once you’ve got your plan, it’s time to pick some plants. A useful mantra for newbies and novices alike is ‘start small’. Pick a handful of plants with similar needs that suit your garden and see how they do. Gardening doesn’t have to be about instant results; it’s more about the journey to achieving those results.
Plant Seeds
The best way to save money is by planting seeds. Even though it takes a little longer, requiring a little more patience and some extra skill, you’ll save plenty of money and have healthier, happier plants.
Planting from seeds gives you full control over growing conditions and the surrounding environment from the very beginning. This allows your plant to establish itself well in your garden from the get-go, saving you money and time on plant care.
Many will consider the waiting a negative trade-off. But watching your tiny seeds grow into fully-fledged flowering plants is so rewarding.
You don’t even have to spend a single cent if you’re considering planting seeds. Gather your own from the existing plants in your garden or get some from friends and neighbours. As your garden grows, it’ll be even easier to build your collection without spending any extra cash.
Propagate
Propagating is the most essential skill of budget gardening. Start with one plant, and end up with more than you could imagine. You simply need one cutting from a friend or kind neighbour to get started.
There are several ways to propagate different types of plants. Some plants grow shoots or plantlets that can easily be snipped off and re-potted. Others grow just as easily from leaf cuttings. Plants with nodes can be propagated by stem cutting, while those in clusters can easily be divided by separating the plant at root level.
Recycle & DIY
Ditch the expensive terracotta pots, and the cheap plastic ones, by making your own. Anything can be a container, from old boots to teapots and even old furniture. Drill some holes at the base and you’ll instantly have a quirky, unique plant container, for free.
Always ensure your chosen container is big enough for your plant. Before you start, clean whichever container you do use thoroughly with some soap and warm water to get rid of any harmful bacteria.
Another recycling favourite for gardeners is composting. Composting is a great gardening practice that everyone can (and should) do no matter where you live or how much space you have. It’s great for the environment and it saves you money on store-bought composts.
So many things can go in a compost heap, from garden waste to veggie and fruit scraps. Avoid tossing weeds and diseased plants in your heap, along with dairy and meat. It does take some time before its contents can be used as compost, but the wait is worth it, especially for gardeners on a budget.
Early blight affects tomatoes, potatoes, eggplants, and other plants of the Solanaceae family. The disease is caused by the fungus Alternaria solani whichspreads slowly by air, infected windblown soil, and splashing rain. It thrives in moist, hot environments.
Early blight largely affects older, lower leaves and causes the development of strangely coloured, bullseye-looking spots. If left unattended, the disease will spread to the rest of the plant. Distinct lesions will occur on both the stem and fruit. Eventually, the affected leaves will die, reducing foliage around the fruits, opening the door to a plethora of other issues.
Early blight can also affect seedlings. Dark spots will first appear on the cotyledons and stems of young plants.
Late blight is caused by a completely different pathogen Phytophthora infestans (the one responsible for the Irish potato famine in 1845). Once spores land on your tomatoes, the infection can take hold in an hour, with symptoms appearing in a few days.
Like early blight, lesions appear on lower leaves, stems, and the fruit. It spreads remarkably quickly, destroying the entire plant and spreading to the rest of your garden if not handled immediately.
Conditions
Both late and early blight thrive in moist, high humidity conditions.
Early blight loves warm weather, but can also survive through winter on infected plant debris or in the soil. Closely planted crops with no air circulation and overhead watering create prime conditions for early blight to take hold.
Late blight, on the other hand, favours cooler temperatures. Its spores germinate in cooler weather, especially after rain, but lesions tend to develop at slightly warmer temperatures.
Identifying Early Blight and Late Blight
Early blight typically begins with a few tan-centred spots per leaf. As the spots enlarge, they become dark brown and begin to look like bullseyes due to their yellowing edges. Leaves begin to drop when the disease spreads to the rest of the plant.
Affected stems will develop collar rot – the formation of dark, sunken bruises above or on the soil line. The disease spreads from the stems to the fruit, causing indented spots to appear beneath the skin.
Late blight lesions begin on the edges of older, lower leaves. They start as pale green-grey spots and turn brown to purple-black in colour. A white, fuzzy mould may appear on the underside of the leaves in humid conditions.
Stem damage appears as brown-black spots that will cause the entire vine to die off. The disease causes brown-grey spots with a leathery texture to form on the fruit. These spots appear near the tops of the fruit and white mould will also appear here if conditions remain humid, as opposed to early blight, where no mould appears.
Early And Late Blight Treatment
You may have a chance of treating these diseases and saving your tomatoes if caught in time. Start by removing and destroying any affected leaves. Apply a vegetable-safe fungicide according to package instructions and continue to monitor the spread of the disease. If the problem remains unresolved, you’ll need to remove the entire plant before the disease spreads to other parts of your garden. To avoid managing problems with disease, your best form of treatment is prevention.
Blight Prevention
These easy blight prevention tips also apply to other fungal tomato diseases:
Avoid overhead watering. Install a drip irrigation system, or water the soil directly.
Mulch around the plants.
Cage or stake the tomatoes to keep foliage off the ground.
Buy blight-resistant tomatoes. Hybrid varieties tend to be more resistant than heirloom varieties.
On the list of plants that not only tolerate but actually prefer a little neglect, Lithops certainly feature in the top spot. These strange succulents are famous for their interesting shapes that awarded them the name Living Stone Plants. They also resemble hooves, or maybe tiny brains, depending on which variety you are dealing with.
Many gardeners find these plants confusing or difficult to care for, largely because their care is so different from other succulent plants. But once you understand their environment and needs, these little plants will become one of the lowest-maintenance (and strangest looking) plants in your succulent garden.
Light
In their natural environments – the open grasslands or rocky areas of southern Africa – lithops get plenty of direct sun throughout the day. Like other succulents, these conditions need to be replicated to ensure healthy growth. Under low light conditions, like those indoors, the compact leaves will stretch towards the nearest light source, known as etiolation. The leaves will also become dull and discoloured. To preserve the shape and colour, ensure your lithops gets at least 6 hours of direct sunlight per day.
Water
Lithops are one of the most drought-friendly plants you can buy. In their native habitats, they are used to receiving little to no water for several months due to lack of rainfall. They are able to survive this way because their impressive leaves store enough water to keep the plant alive.
To mimic these drought-like conditions, your lithops will need tiny amounts of water every couple of weeks, and only during the growing seasons of spring and autumn. In summer and winter, the plants go dormant and don’t need to be watered at all (unless the leaves start to wrinkle, indicating the leaf reservoir is running out of water). A teaspoon of water applied every two weeks is all you need to keep the leaves plump and happy.
Soil
Lithops live in sandy, rocky soil with little nutrients – what we gardeners would consider poor quality soil. The soil should be incredibly well-draining and gritty. The less water it holds, the better. Use a cactus potting mix or create your own soil mix using a combination of potting mix, pool sand, gravel, and perlite.
Temperature
Like true South Africans, lithops cannot stand the cold. When left outdoors in temperatures lower than 10 degrees for extended periods of time, the leaves will begin to die off. If they face any frost, the cell walls of the plant leaves rupture, causing any exposed sections to rot. It is incredibly difficult to save a lithops damaged by the cold, so it’s best to avoid this problem and bring them inside if cold weather is forecast.
Lithops Quick Facts:
Lithops will flower after 3 to 5 years, once per season. These flowers produce seed pods that explode outwards when exposed to moisture, spreading new seeds around the plant.
Don’t be alarmed if your leaves appear to be splitting – new leaf pairs emerge from the centre of the plant, drawing moisture from the previous leaf pair until they die off.
It is best not to fertilize your lithops, as it is very easy to overfertilize and cause damage to the plant. If the plant is not flowering, you can use a heavily diluted cactus fertilizer, but do so sparingly.
Lithops leaves are fused and directly connected to the roots. Most of the leaf is buried under the soil to protect it from predators and the sun, blending in with the surrounding rocks so well that they are often difficult to spot in the wild. The tops of the leaves are translucent to allow more light to reach the parts of the plant underground.
Plant propagation is a gardener’s ultimate skill. We all love our precious plants, so who wouldn’t want more of them? Indoor plant propagation in particular has become incredibly popular. Not only is it easy to do and completely free, but it allows you to grow an entire collection of the most loved plants around.
If you’re a new plant parent trying out propagation for the first time, these four plants will be your best friends. They are incredibly easy to propagate and cover all the houseplant propagation methods to give you plenty of practice before you tackle the harder stuff.
Leaf cutting
The first houseplant propagation method is leaf-cutting and for this method, look no further than the trusty Sansevieria. Also known as the snake plant, or mother-in-law’s tongue, this structural houseplant staple is almost impossible to kill and insanely easy to propagate.
While it can also be propagated by division, leaf cuttings give you far more plants in the end as entire leaves can be split into multiple cuttings. Simply remove a leaf, cut it into sections about the size of your finger, and stick the cutting in some succulent potting mix with the root direction facing downwards. It’s that easy!
After a few weeks, when the cuttings show some resistance to being pulled, they can be transplanted into separate pots. Alternatively, save yourself that extra step and plant the cuttings in their final home.
Stem cutting
Climbing vines are ideal specimens for water propagation. You’ve probably seen them all over Instagram – glass test tubes or old bottles filled with stems and long, healthy root systems. The best plant to help you join this plant propagation club is Epipremnum aureum (also known as Scindapsus aureus, or more commonly – Pothos).
You’ll notice several nodes along the stems where the leaves emerge. Snip off a stem or two just below one of these nodes, removing any leaves closest to the node. Pop that end in a glass of water and leave in a sunny spot. Soon you will notice the roots forming, but leave the stems in the water until the roots are at least a few centimetres long. They can then be transplanted out into individual pots.
To keep the roots healthy and prevent any unwanted build up, replace the water every couple of days.
Plantlets
If the previous two examples sound like too much work, you can always opt for a plant that does all the work for you – Chlorophytum comosum (Spider plant). The Spider plant produces little plantlets along stems, also called pups or babies, that look just like a tiny version of the fully grown plant.
Remove any of the plantlets with a full node along the stem with a pair of scissors. You can either place the plantlet in water to watch the roots grow, or plant it straight into a pot filled with indoor potting mix. Spider plants can produce several plantlets on one plant, so you’ll only need one to get started.
Division
The final common houseplant propagation method is division. Many popular houseplants can be propagated by division, but one of the most popular is the ZZ Plant, Zamioculcas Zamiifolia. Although they are loved for their shiny structural appearance, their favoured trait has to be in the care department. These plants can withstand a little (or a lot) or neglect, and still look as staunch as ever, even if you forget a watering or two.
For this method, remove the entire plant from its pot and shake off the soil. You’ll notice a clumped root ball, which you can either cut in half, or into three depending on the size. Always use a sharp disinfected knife to prevent damage and disease. Plant the divisions into separate pots and they should shoot up some new leaves in no time.
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